Debunking the myths of cosmetics

Myths. Some stem from the exaggeration of a more or less true assumption; others—the most popular—survive generations; many feed on the confusion caused by an excess of disorganized and unreliable information about new active ingredients and technological advances; and most are mere marketing ploys. Debunking Cosmetic Myths is a post dedicated to shedding some light on all of them.

Myth 1: “ Our age determines the type of cosmetics we should use ”

The age-based division is arbitrary and driven by marketing, not reality. Skin condition depends 25% on our genome and 75% on our exposome . That is, it depends on our sun exposure, our habits (diet, smoking, alcohol), our geographical location, the quality of our sleep, and how we manage stress. All these causal factors, not our next birthday, determine the molecular processes of cellular aging.

Myth 2: “ Dark spots are an inevitable result of aging ”

Dark spots on the skin—solar lentigines or hyperpigmentation—originate from prolonged exposure to sunlight without adequate sun protection. This is why they first appear on the hands, face, arms, and chest. And, for the same reason, their incidence is rare in cultures where extreme paleness is considered the ideal of beauty, because sun exposure is systematically avoided.

Daily use of the right sun care product for your skin type, combined with antioxidants, is a successful preventative strategy.

Once they appear, they can be treated with depigmenting agents such as Vitamin C, Arbutin or Niacinamide, to name a few of the truly effective ones without being the most aggressive; as well as with laser.

Myth 3: “ The higher the sun protection factor (SPF), the better ”

A sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 25 protects against 92% of UVB rays, while SPF 30 (SPF 30+) protects against more than 97.5% and is considered the minimum recommended. SPF 50+ (or "total sunblock," a misleading term since total protection simply doesn't exist) will only provide 1% to 2% more coverage. This means that SPF 50+ isn't necessarily the best option, especially when using chemical filters on sensitive skin, which can lead to dermatitis and rosacea. As a general rule, and except for specific occasions (days in the snow, boat trips, prolonged sun exposure, etc.), SPF 30+ is preferable and should be reapplied frequently.

Myth 4: “ I don’t need to use sunscreen if my makeup already has SPF .”

Unless we're talking about a tinted SPF 30+/50+ sunscreen or a BB cream with SPF 30+, conventional foundations provide insufficient or no SPF. It's also worth remembering that sunscreens require frequent reapplication, which isn't practical with makeup. Fortunately, there are sun care products available in stick, compact, or brush formats that are very convenient for this purpose.

Myth 5: “ If I am very dark-skinned or already tanned, I don't need protection .”

The risk of sunburn is lower but still exists; and the damage caused by free radicals to cells is the same. It's also important to remember that solar radiation is linked to the incidence of skin cancer. Sunscreen products should be considered preventative medicine: they are essential for all skin types.

Myth 6: “ Lips don’t need sun protection ”

It's quite the opposite. The skin on your lips is very thin and lacks sebaceous glands. Because it's constantly moving and in contact with saliva, it dries out easily. Your lips will thank you for a good moisturizing lip balm with SPF.

Myth 7: “ Vitamin C cannot be used during the day because it is photosensitizing .”

Confusion between the terms “photosensitive” and “photosensitizing” is very common.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is highly unstable and photosensitive, meaning it is inactivated by sunlight. However, it is NOT photosensitizing: it does not make our skin more vulnerable to radiation than it already is. On the contrary, if it is well-formulated and combined with antioxidants such as Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid, it protects the skin by helping to reverse the production of free oxygen radicals. That said, it must always be followed by a suitable sunscreen for the anti-aging combination to be optimal.

CLARIFYING COLLECTION DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 8: “ Acne is for young skin and goes away with age ”

If only acne were something exclusive to our teenage years and early adulthood! If it were, the cosmetics industry's production and the work of beauty salons would decrease by 65%. That's how prevalent it is.

The truth is that the vast majority of skin is oily. And when we say "the vast majority," we mean that 85% of the population has oily skin. Not everyone suffers from acne during puberty. Some develop it later in life because not all sebum production is related to hormonal activity. Unfortunately, others struggle with it for much of their adult lives.

The good news is that acne and its aftereffects (scars, blemishes, hypersensitivity, etc.) are treatable. A personalized diagnosis by professionals will design a protocol tailored to your skin and lifestyle, making your treatment routine simple and enjoyable. Contact us .

Myth 9: “ Washing with soap and exfoliating daily is the best thing for acne-prone skin .”

Sometimes it seems necessary to remember that the goal of advertising is to sell more, and this is the typical statement that manufacturers rub their hands with glee.

The approach to any skin condition, including acne, should begin with caution and gentleness. Washing with irritating agents and daily use of an exfoliant will damage the skin barrier, depriving it of its hydrolipidic film. The skin will respond by producing more sebum to compensate. Exfoliation will cause micro-cuts that attract bacteria to the pores, potentially leading to infection. At the same time, the skin will become sensitized and react with irritation, redness, and inflammation.

An aggressive approach is a terrible idea in the short, medium, and long term. It will only worsen the problem, causing flare-ups and weakening the epidermis, which will become thinner, more reactive, develop dermatitis, and become even more photosensitive.

There are products perfectly suited for acne-prone skin. Natural cleansers, without detergents or perfumes; and gentle exfoliants that can be used once or even twice a week, depending on the specific product and individual case.

Myth 10: “ Makeup causes acne ”

Acne has only one cause: excess sebum production. Its origin can be hormonal or not, and this is the first thing to assess before starting any treatment. Based on a personalized diagnosis, light makeup formulated for acne-prone skin contributes to its improvement and protection, as well as providing comfort and confidence to the wearer. Addressing the sensory and psychological aspects is also part of a good treatment plan.

Any cosmetic used randomly can worsen a pre-existing condition. The key is to seek advice from specialists and obtain a personalized diagnosis and treatment plan.

What undoubtedly worsens acne and can even cause unexpected breakouts is a lack of proper hygiene. Gentle yet thorough cleansing morning and night—even if you haven't been outside—using the right products is the foundation of healthy skin and the cornerstone of effective acne treatment. Without hygiene, we can't achieve anything.

SOAP ON AN EMPTY STOMACH

Myth 11: “ Oily skin doesn’t need as much hydration ”

Increased sebum production is not synonymous with increased hydration. Hydration is related to the moisture level, the water content; not the oil level. And we've already seen that if the skin feels attacked, it will activate a compensatory defense mechanism that produces more sebum.

There are excellent moisturizers for oily skin. For example, a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid will provide deep hydration that retains water where it matters most: in the intercellular matrix of connective tissue, thus helping to maintain skin elasticity.

The great advantage of molecular cosmetics is that it allows the effective delivery of several active ingredients without overloading the skin, without clogging pores, without leaving a greasy residue, without a mask effect, without irritation, and without a feeling of tightness or discomfort.

HYALURONIC SERUM DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 12: “ Acids, such as Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and Vitamin A (retinol), are not suitable for sensitive skin .”

False. At least categorically.

Because there is an essential nuance in the way this statement is made, and it is this: the right Vitamin C and Retinol products, in the correct proportion and following a prudent and personalized tolerance protocol, can indeed be indicated for sensitive skin.

It's important to understand that skin sensitivity isn't an epidermal condition. It's a condition that can be corrected. Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant that will enhance the effectiveness of topical sun protection. Vitamin A , for its part, helps repair our cells, improving their performance and strengthening the skin barrier. Proper cell function will result in normalized skin.

Thus, both may be suitable for sensitive or reactive skin; the key is to be prudent and seek advice from professionals who will determine the appropriate products and protocols.

DAILY RADIANCE VITAMIN C MEDIK8

Myth 13: “ You should change creams frequently because the skin gets used to them and they stop being effective .”

If the active ingredients are the right ones to meet your skin's needs, they will continue to work perfectly as long as those needs don't change; and there's no need to replace them with others.

It's a completely different matter when your exposome changes, leading to new demands that we must address. The skin is a living, dynamic organ, and it's its adaptation and response to the environment that dictate cosmetic practices, not the other way around.

Myth 14: “ You know a cream is good because you see results immediately .”

Molecular cosmetics is based on researching the biological processes responsible for aging in order to mimic their mechanisms. This allows for the creation of biomimetic compounds that activate our own metabolic resources, stimulating those that slow down with age and achieving reliable and sustainable results.

This process takes time and cannot be forced. As a reference point, we should assess the effectiveness of a cosmetic product once the cell renewal cycle, which occurs approximately every 28 days, is complete.

Of course, a very different case would be if a new cosmetic produced a visible and unexpected adverse reaction (at the beginning of the retinol tolerance protocol some moderate irritation is to be expected), in which case we should discontinue its use immediately.

Myth 15: “ All creams should be from the same brand ”

No: you should use the cosmetic ingredients that your skin needs to function properly. They may or may not belong to the same cosmetic brand. “Brand loyalty” is a positioning and marketing strategy that sells the idea that products from the same brand complement each other to achieve maximum effectiveness when used together. But that's a lie.

In fact, when you put yourself in the hands of professionals, that's not usually the case. First, because a personalized treatment focuses on the specific needs of each individual's complexion. And second, because very few cosmetic companies manage to be a benchmark for each and every one of their products. Generally, each one stands out for a particular line or specializes in a specific family of active ingredients. And that's perfectly fine because, with the right advice, we can enjoy the best of them all.

Myth 16: “ You don’t really need a night cream ”

Regardless of whether the expression "night cream" is a bit outdated, it is an excellent idea to take advantage of the nighttime cycle of skin repair and regeneration to get the most out of certain active ingredients - such as retinol or peptides - which work at their maximum effectiveness under these conditions.

NIGHT SERUM & AMPOULES DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 17: “ Pores close in the cold and open in the heat ”

As the openings of the hair follicle and sebaceous gland, pores are always open. And we're sorry to say, but pore size is determined by our genetics and is fixed. At most, they increase slightly with age due to the loss of skin elasticity. That's all.

Regarding temperature, its fluctuation affects the tension of the surrounding skin, not the size of the pore itself. Heat does not facilitate pore cleansing. This is one of the most deeply rooted intergenerational myths, but fortunately, the use of steam as a preliminary step to facial cleansing is considered malpractice and is a thing of the past.

Having said all of the above… what we can achieve is to improve the appearance of pores by minimizing their visibility. How?

• Starting with proper hygiene, as always. A gentle exfoliating cleanse that promotes epidermal renewal will make pores appear smaller. It will also enhance the absorption of the active ingredients applied afterward.





• Of these, salicylic acid among the beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and glycolic acid among the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) show the best results, promoting a biological peel that regulates—to a certain extent—the production of peri-pore keratin. However, be very careful when experimenting with acids without any base. A professional will advise you on which active ingredient and in what proportion is suitable for your skin with complete safety.





• And if sun protection is a recurring topic in itself, it becomes even more so when we start talking about acids. Because we don't want to add sunburn or hyperpigmentation to this problem, do we?

Myth 18: “ The best cosmetics are Korean ”

False. At least for Westerners. The Asian skin exposome is very different from the Western one, and therefore, so will their concerns be.

It's true that cosmetics from South Korea have been enthusiastically embraced in this part of the world. Their success stems from their affordability and incredibly attractive packaging. Colorful and original, these products invite experimentation and play. Their formulations are similarly designed for visual impact, often featuring a single active ingredient and always in silicone bases that promote a feeling of lightness and spreadability but offer few real benefits. Of course, there are Korean cosmetic brands that deviate from this general trend, but these are not the ones that reach the West in large quantities. Instead, they are formulated in Japanese laboratories, where regulatory and quality standards are comparable to those in Europe.

Myth 19: “ It is better to use antibacterial soap to wash your hands ”

As we already explained in the post “ The best routine for hand care ”, once again the least aggressive approach is the right one.

On the one hand, the existence of bacteria on our skin is healthy and perfectly normal; the overuse of antibacterial soap could lead to the proliferation of multi-resistant bacteria.

On the other hand, frequent use of antibacterial soap is unnecessary and harmful. It will only destroy the hydrolipidic film that covers the epidermis, our skin barrier, and make us more prone to irritation, contact dermatitis, and infections.

COVID-19 is caused by a virus, not bacteria. Proper hygiene is achieved through thorough washing, not with harsh detergents or hotter water.

Myth 20: “ If the ingredients of two products are the same, then they are identical .”

Two products might seem almost identical if we go by their INCI list, but what really matters when evaluating each active ingredient is:

• a) its quality,





• b) the proportion used, which should be the maximum recommended to fulfill its purpose; and





• c) its delivery method, that is, the use of technology that makes it more efficient, for example, its molecular weight. A lower molecular weight will allow it to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, while a high one will cause it to remain on the surface, providing merely external results with no regenerative capacity.

The reality is that two products that have the same active ingredient as their first ingredient, hyaluronic acid for example, are most likely to be perfectly different.

Myth 21: “ In cosmetics, the order of the factors does not alter the product ”

Just as molecular cosmetics allows a cosmetic product to not only combat multiple issues simultaneously but also enhances the synergy between its components, increasing both individual and combined effectiveness, other active ingredients lose efficacy when combined. The most well-known incompatibilities are:

• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) + Niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin PP, vitamin B3). The reason is simply that vitamin C, when applied topically, gains stability when combined with an oil. Niacinamide has a pH that is too acidic, incompatible with vitamin C, and is water-soluble. Their combination is not harmful; they simply lose effectiveness together. The ideal companions for vitamin C are other antioxidants, especially vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and ferulic acid; but also resveratrol and pycnogen.





• Retinol plus other AHAs. This combination could cause harm because it is too aggressive. Both could be used on alternate days, once tolerance has developed, but it is advisable to do so under the guidance of a qualified professional.

RETINOL MEDIK8

Myth 22: “ Cosmetics need perfumes to smell good ”

Fragrances, whether natural or synthetic, are all irritants and offer no benefits, only risks. It's quite another thing for a cosmetic to have a pleasant scent thanks to one of its ingredients. Otherwise, it shouldn't smell of anything.

Myth 23: “ Chemicals are bad ”

Everything in life is chemistry. We are chemistry. Every cosmetic product, even natural and organic ones, is produced and formulated in a laboratory with all safety guarantees. "Chemical-free" is impossible, absurd, and a deception. Chemophobia is senseless.

Myth 24: “ Newly created or discovered assets are the best ”

Not necessarily. Science advances, and every new addition to the cosmetic world is welcome. That doesn't mean we should stop relying on tried-and-tested active ingredients that continue to play their part and, in many cases, are still irreplaceable.

Myth 25: “ It’s good to rest for a couple of days and let your skin breathe .”

There's no problem with temporarily reducing your cosmetic use, but you can't neglect hygiene or stop ongoing treatments. In our post "Skin Fasting," we already detailed the basic precautions:

• Don't skip your hygiene routine. Morning and night. Your skin still needs gentle cleansing with the right products.





• Don't skip a gentle weekly exfoliation. Epidermal renewal continues its natural process.





• Do not deprive the eye contour of its daily care with products specifically designed for our most fragile area.





• Do not stop acne treatment. Abruptly stopping the active ingredients you use for prevention and treatment will cause flare-ups and worsening of the condition.





• Do not discontinue any treatment for any other type of skin condition.





• Do not stop Vitamin A treatment. As we've already seen, the retinol adaptation protocol is prudent—slow and gradual—to build tolerance. If you abruptly stop retinol intake, all the progress made will have been for nothing, and you'll have to start the protocol from scratch when you resume it.





• Never skip sunscreen. Never. In our post "Sun Cosmetics," we explain in detail why sun protection is essential 365 days a year. This is especially true if we're also neglecting to provide our skin with the minimum moisture and antioxidants needed for protection and nourishment.

LAIT VIP O ₂ BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE

Myth 26: “ Homemade cosmetics are safer ”

Some ingredients we can find in our pantry or refrigerator, like olive or coconut oil, can have harmless home applications, such as treating cuticles or moisturizing long hair. The problem is that others, like lemon juice or baking soda, are not so safe and should be used with caution. Similarly, mixing food products to create face masks, for example, can lead to infections due to fermentation or improper preservation of the ingredients.

Myth 27: “ Natural ingredients do not cause irritation ”

Natural ingredients, which offer countless benefits to our skin, must be formulated correctly to ensure safe delivery. For example, essential oils are a marvel of nature, but their use "pure," without dilution or proper formulation, can lead to serious irritation and photosensitivity.

Myth 28: “ If a product is hypoallergenic, it is safe for sensitive skin .”

To begin with, we suffer from a shameful legislative gap in the European Union regarding the regulation of certain terms, such as "hypoallergenic." There is no control whatsoever. Anyone can add it to their label, and it is simply assumed that there is a lower risk of allergic reaction, but there is no guarantee that the product does not contain allergenic substances. It's a lottery, in short.

To ensure a product is safe for you, it's advisable to carefully read the ingredients and avoid those containing toxins, fragrances, parabens, phthalates, sulfates, mineral oils, and oxybenzone, to begin with. However, the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) system can be complex for the uninitiated. At Beldon Beauty, we always recommend professional advice to guarantee your skin receives only what's suitable for it.

FASTING, LESS IS BEAUTY

Myth 29: “ In the world of organic cosmetics, seals like Ecocert are completely reliable .”

False. The legal vacuum in the European Union regarding labeling with terms such as "hypoallergenic" extends to natural and organic cosmetics, which are covered by regulation 1223/2009 concerning general cosmetics.

This gap is filled by private companies whose objective is to offer certain guarantees. The problem is that these guarantees are random, unregulated, and operate under non-standardized regulations. And they are bought. In other words, regardless of whether the requirements are met, these certifications have a price, and whoever pays for them gets them.

A fascinating topic, but one so extensive that it deserves its own chapter, is the myth surrounding traditional cosmetics versus natural, organic, and vegan cosmetics. We discuss them all here .

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