The best anti-aging cosmetics

We live, therefore we age. Seen that way, it doesn't sound so bad, does it? Aging isn't a disease but the consequence of multiple causal factors. Understanding them is the foundation that will allow us to reduce its incidence and lessen its effects. The best anti-aging cosmetics are our ally, but let's take it one step at a time: why does our skin age?

THE EXPOSOME

Since the complete sequencing of the human genome was published in 2003, we know that our genetics are responsible for only 25% of chronic diseases. Molecular epidemiologist Christopher P. Wild, director of the International Agency for Research on Cancer (WHO/IARC) , coined the term exposome in 2005 to define the sum of external, non-genetic environmental and exposure factors to which we are subjected from birth, as well as our body's interaction with and response to them.

If “man is man and his circumstances,” we could well say that our skin is “the genome and its exposome,” that is, the product of our genes plus their exposure to external agents. And this is fantastic news! Because it means that, however genetically “imperfect” our complexion may be, 75% of its aging process will depend on our intervention.

In the study of the cutaneous exposome, 7 factors have been identified that are related to its aging (Krutmann et al., 2017:

• Solar radiation





• Pollution





• Tobacco





• Temperature





• Nutrition





• Stress





• Lack of sleep

When we at Beldon Beauty talk about taking care of ourselves, we mean many things : maintaining a balanced diet with fresh, seasonal products, moving in ways we enjoy, sharing time and laughter with loved ones, and finally getting a good night's sleep. By doing this, we're already optimizing three key factors: nutrition, stress, and rest.

Pollution and temperature will largely depend on our geographical location; and here too we have options, especially with the rise of remote work. Urban life may not be the best for our skin; in fact, studies on the subject reveal some interesting data. For example, a higher incidence of acne and skin sensitivity in industrialized countries. Or that atopic dermatitis improves among those who enjoy the company of a pet and walk in parks or the countryside daily.

We discussed other triggers of aging, and in particular solar radiation, in our post "Sun Cosmetics ." We already know that sun protection is ESSENTIAL 365 days a year. What can the best anti-aging cosmetics do for us?

VITAMIN A

What it is and what it does for the skin

We usually use the generic term "retinol" to refer to "retinoids," which is the group of molecules derived from vitamin A. Thus, we have: retinoic acid (tretinoin, in lower concentration), retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, and retinol.

The success of retinoids stems from their extremely low molecular weight, which allows for dermal penetration and intracellular action. In dermatology, retinoic acid is considered the "gold standard," meaning the most effective, optimal, and reference active ingredient. One hundred times more effective than retinol, its potency also makes it the most irritating, thus reserving it for short-term treatments and requiring a prescription.

Retinol, on the other hand, is well-tolerated and allows for long-term cosmetic use, provided the concentration is correct. Its benefits are numerous:

• Cell activation and repair





• Strengthening the barrier function





• Increased synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin





• Reverses photoaging and evens skin tone





• It is a depigmenting agent. It stabilizes the melanocyte, preventing it from increasing in size and the irregular production of melanin that leads to dark spots.





• Increased hydration, improved skin texture





• While not an exfoliant, it boosts epidermal renewal





• Sebum-regulating action, controls oil production. “Closes” the pore.





• Improvement of wrinkles, scars, and acne marks





• It regulates the keratinization process





• It has an antioxidant effect

How to choose a good retinol cosmetic

When using a product containing retinol, we must pay special attention to its composition, concentration, and formulation. This is because retinoids present two problems:

1- They are sensitive to oxygen, light and heat and, therefore, extremely unstable; and

2- They can cause mild to severe irritation (discomfort, redness and peeling).

Cosmetic laboratories have been working hard to find formulations that solve both problems. At the forefront of this effort is the British company Medik8 , which has patented the following advances:

1- The creation of retinyl retinoate, a super-molecule that fuses retinol and retinoic acid and is able to increase collagen production up to 8 times more than retinol.

2- The development of a dermal delivery system with controlled release time, Time Release (TR™). The company itself describes it as follows: “All Medik8 vitamin A serums use the active ingredient encapsulated in a micro-fluid or polymer shell. As the serum is rubbed into the skin, the encapsulation breaks down and the vitamin A is slowly released into the skin. This significantly minimizes the risk of irritation and ensures that the skin benefits are received slowly over a prolonged period of time.”

To prevent oxidation, Medik8 formulates its serums without water (the base is nourishing safflower oil), manufactures them in a nitrogen chamber, and uses specialized, dark amber bottles. All of this guarantees the stability of the active ingredient and, therefore, its effectiveness.

How to include retinol in our beauty routine

Slowly, to avoid unwanted irritation, until tolerance is built up. A good method to follow would be what Medik8 calls 'the retinol ladder' :

- Use only 2 nights per week for the first 2

- The next 2 weeks: every other night

- And, if tolerance is optimal, every night from then on, even gradually increasing the percentage of retinol, if desired.

Daily sun protection, always necessary, becomes a must if we use Vitamin A. Although the retinol molecule is not photosensitizing, our skin will be more sensitive in general, including to solar radiation.

The star anti-aging routine would consist of Vitamin C ( post-holiday cure ), followed by sun protection in the mornings; and Vitamin A at bedtime.

Can we use retinol on sensitive skin?

It's important to understand that skin sensitivity isn't an epidermal condition. It's a condition that can be corrected. Retinol helps repair our cells, improving their performance and strengthening the skin barrier. Proper cell function will result in normalization.

Thus, retinol may also be indicated for sensitive or reactive skin; the key lies in being prudent and seeking advice from professionals to choose the appropriate product and protocol .

At Beldon Beauty, we're here to help. Our personalized diagnosis guarantees you'll receive exactly what your skin needs, and no other. Because our philosophy is that each person's treatment plan is unique , and not everything is suitable for everyone . Contact us; we offer a personalized online consultation service at: https://stg-beldonbeauty-devbeldon.kinsta.cloud/asesoramiento-online-a-medida/

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